Buying Your First Home EV Charger

By · November 15, 2017

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Close-up EVSE

It may surprise EV newbies to learn that an electric car’s charger is found on board the vehicle. It’s the equipment buried in the guts of the car that takes an AC source of juice from your house, and converts it to DC—so your car’s battery pack can be charged.

This fact doesn’t stop nearly everybody from calling the wall-mounted box that supplies 240 volts of electricity a “charger.” Actually, that box, cord, and plug has a technical name—Electric Vehicle Service Equipment or EVSE—and if you have an EV, you’re going to want to install one at home.

So, it’s slightly misleading to say we’re providing guidance about chargers because we’re really talking about buying an EVSE—which is essentially no more than an electrical device allowing drivers to safely connect an electric car to a 240-volt source of electricity. It’s not rocket science, and you should not overthink the selection and installation of an EVSE.

That said, there are important differences between the various home chargers (uh, I mean EVSEs). And there are a few best practices to keep in mind.

An AeroVironment installer goes to work on a home unit.

An AeroVironment installer goes to work on a home unit. (AeroVironment photo)


The general consensus among experienced EV drivers is that a capable and durable EVSE will cost around $600 to $700. You could spend a little bit less, or twice as much, but that’s the ballpark. This does not include installation. Read on to see which key features—such as portability and connectivity—can send the price higher, or can be avoided to reduce the cost.

Amperage Capacity

You should buy an EVSE that can handle at least 30 amps. The rule of thumb is that 30-amp service will roughly give you the ability to add 30 miles of range in an hour—just as 15 amps will add about 15 miles in an hour of charging. (These range numbers are somewhat optimistic.)

Keep in mind that most plug-in hybrids (and the Nissan LEAF prior to the 2013 model) don’t take full advantage of the faster rate. That’s okay. It’s still wise to have the capacity to charge at least at the 30-amp level, even if your current car can't fully utilize the higher amperage, so you don’t have to upgrade in a few years if/when you buy a new EV that has a faster onboard charger. Also, it’s nice to allow friends with faster-charging EVs to get a full charge from your garage.

Note: A 30-amp EVSE will need a circuit breaker rated for at least 40 amps.

Length of Charging Cable, and EVSE Location

Before you buy an EVSE, imagine where your electric car will be parked. Think about the ideal location for this piece of equipment. Now measure the distance between where the EVSE will hang on your wall, and where the charging port is on your car. Cables usually run from approximately 15 to 25 feet. Make sure your cord can easily reach where it needs to go and think about its length for a potential second plug-in car in your driveway or garage.

Depending on where you locate your EVSE, an electrician might have to run just a few feet of conduit—or dozens of feet. Longer copper runs will add installation cost, but because you’ll charge almost every night, you want it to be as convenient as possible.


If it’s possible, don’t permanently install your EVSE. In other words, have an electrician install a NEMA 14-50 outlet or something similar (types of outlets used for things like clothes dryers). Then put a matching plug on a pigtail mounted to your EVSE. You can then mount your EVSE right next to the outlet, and simply plug it in. If the time comes when you move or decide to relocate your EVSE, simply unplug it—and plug it back into another NEMA 14-50 outlet.

This approach costs exactly the same as a hard-wire installation, and makes the device instantly moveable without additional expense. If your EVSE is outside—because maybe you don’t have a garage—then local code might require that you hard-wire the charging equipment. Otherwise, keep your options open.


In this age of smart phones, smart grids, smart this and smart that, you might feel compelled to buy a Wi-Fi-enabled EVSE. That might not be so smart after all. While these fancier products sound cool because they have timers, meters, touch screens and capabilities for monitoring and changing charging events over the web, most long-time EV drivers believe that connectivity adds unnecessary complexity as well as cost. In some cases, when connectivity is lost, the EVSE can shut down. Besides, many of these remote controllable features are available directly on the car, or from mobile applications. So, the smart money is on dumb but durable EVSEs.

If tracking electricity usage of your EV (for work or tax purposes) is an absolute must, you'll want to either meter your charging separately or keep your eye open for add-on devices that perform this function via integration with the smart grid. These solutions are currently being evaluated in pilot projects.

Popular Choices for EVSEs

Okay, we’re finally ready to talk about specific EVSEs. There are at least a dozen different manufacturers, but we won’t cover all of them in detail. Instead, we’ll focus on the EVSEs most highly recommended by the EV intelligentsia. We’ll also briefly mention a few others worth considering.

ClipperCreek HCS-40

ClipperCreek HCS-40

When we reached out to experienced EV drivers, nearly all of them put ClipperCreek equipment at the top of their list. The company has been making these units for more than 15 years. Their equipment doesn’t necessarily get the highest marks for aesthetics, but the same words keep coming up in those recommendations: durable, robust, and even indestructible. No screens, no software, no problems. Recently, ClipperCreek came out with a more affordable unit, well-suited to private garages: the HCS-40. It has a compact size, a 32-amp limit, a 25-foot cord and starts at $565. It's also available with a NEMA 14-50 or 6-50 plug (great for charging at RV parks) for $589.

Buy at

Siemens VC30GRYU Versicharge 30-Amp EV Charger

Siemens VC30GRYU Versicharge 30-Amp EV Charger

At $500, the Siemens VersiCharge VC30GRYU is the most affordable full-function mounted EVSE (although not by much.) It’s a compelling option because it’s also very simple with easy-to-see indicator lights and a larger shape that makes it easy to wrap the cord in a tidy package. While not a critical function, the ability to easily delay the charging session (in two-hour increments) with a push of the button might occasionally come in handy. We recommend using your car’s dashboard controls to establish the charging schedule—to charge when the rates are low (if you’re on a time-of-use utility plan). The Siemens unit is relatively big, so it’s not the best choice if your space is tight.

Buy on

JuiceBox Pro 40

JuiceBox Pro 40

JuiceBox Pro 40 is a smart, WiFi-connected 10-kW Level 2 charging station. It’s currently priced at $599. Electric Motor Werks, the manufacturer based in San Carlos, Calif., is offering this charging station as a pre-configured 40-amp unit, supplied with a 24-foot J1772 cable and a six-foot input cable with 14-50P plug. The chief benefit is the connectivity and software-upgradability of the charging station. This model comes with WiFi connectivity, energy metering, scheduling, notifications, smartphone app, and it's ready to adapt with ongoing enhancements, like the ability to monitor charge rates from an app or use Amazon Alexa to initiate a charge. However, some drivers complain that the cord is unwieldy to manage.

Buy directly at Electric Motor Werks.

Aerovironment EV Charger

Aerovironment EVSE RS-Plug-in

As an alternative to ClipperCreek, you could opt for the slightly less revered AeroVironment charging station. It has about the same specs and footprint, and a nicer cord handling system that wraps around the unit. Some reviewers feel it’s a bit cheaper in feel. Aerovironment offers a full-service installation program, better user guides and documentation and a three-year warranty. The 15-foot hardwired version starts at $539.00 and the 25-foot hardwired version starts at $699.00. The plug-In version starts at $749.00.

Buy on

Aerovironment TurboCord

Aerovironment TurboCord

If portability is your most desired feature, then AeroVironment’s TurboCord 240-volt charger might be the charger for you. It’s compact, light, and very portable. The $389 TurboCord is a compelling alternative to wall-mounted boxes, especially charging a plug-in hybrid. It makes its easier and cheaper to set up a home or and workplace charger. Simply install a 6-20R socket and plug in the TurboCord. The Turbocord gets generally high ratings, especially for low cost and portability, although some customers have complained about product failure over time.

Buy on

Visit the PlugShare Store for a wide selction of top-rated, best-selling EV home-charging stations.

A Word about Electricians

There’s some debate about whether or not you should use a contractor referred by your dealership. The general view is that any qualified electrician can handle the installation, and that you’ll avoid premiums charged by so-called EV installation specialists. The key is if you can absolutely identify a skilled electrician—because a bad electrician can mess up the job.

EV owners who aren't certain of their ability to judge the quality of an electrician are advised to go with a manufacturer's recommended certified installer.

The cost of installation will vary depending on installation quality, distance that wires and conduits need to run from the breaker box (a.k.a. service panel) to the EVSE, and labor rates of the electrician. Some jobs can cost as little as $200, if the EVSE is mounted next to the breaker box. Or the installation can run as much as several thousand dollars if a conduit needs to be run from another part of the house, or if new or upgraded electrical service is required at your home.

DIY is a low-cost installation option, with a big caveat: don’t take on this job if you don’t know what you are doing. It can be dangerous. Besides, local codes may require permits and inspections to be carried out on your EVSE installation.

As long as we’re talking about DIY alternatives, some EV drivers swear by low cost alternatives from these groups:

One last note: Keep your receipts. In some locations, the cost of an EVSE and installation qualifies for state or local incentives.

Thanks to all the EV experts who contributed to this article. We encourage you to add your own feedback and guidance in the comments below, and we will continue to make revisions based on new information and products.


· · 4 years ago

"It’s still wise to be able to charge at least at the 30-amp level now so you don’t have to upgrade in a few years when you buy a new EV."

When you say "have to upgrade when you buy a new EV", it implies that the new EV will not be compatible with a 15-amp EVSE. This is not true - the charge rate will be limited by the EVSE, not the car. You may want to reword this, or at least expand on it. I understand what you're trying to say here, but I'm not your target audience ;)

But to take it a step further, if 15A works for someone today, it will still work in the future, unless their driving patterns change.

· · 4 years ago

Clipper Creek has a crazy sale on the residential LCS25(it pumps out around 5kwph). It's under $600 for a limited time. I use it to charge my Volt and it works great with an ultra small footprint. I think it may be the smallest on the market. A local licensed electrician should be able to install a system for less than $300.

You will have to upgrade eventually to a 100amp system once the battery density or batty size increases in EV's like the 85kw battery pack in the Tesla Model S.

Great article! We shared it on the EVSPY Facebook and twitter feeds! Hopefully it helps get the word out!

· · 4 years ago

Forgot to mention, Brian you are correct when you say 15amp is fine. The only downside is unacceptably long charging sessions .

· · 4 years ago


Define "unacceptably long". For many people, home charging will happen over night. 15A is roughly 10-12 miles of charge per hour for the 2012 Leaf. If you're plugged in for 10 hours overnight, that's 100-120 miles of charging per day. No, it won't charge an 85kwh Tesla Model S from empty to full overnight, but how many people are really driving more than 100 miles per day? Some, for sure, but they are the exception.

Take a typical driver, averaging 40 miles per day. At 15A, it should take 3-4 hours to recharge. At 30A, it should take half that, or 1.5-2 hours. For an overnight charge, the difference is meaningless. For a charge during lunch on a busy Saturday, it becomes more meaningful. But as batteries get larger, the need to charge during the day becomes less. For most, a large battery like 85kWh either needs to be supercharged (road trip) or can essentially be trickle charged at 15A.

That LCS25 is a slick little unit! 5kW is right in the middle of the typical 3.6kW or 7.2kW units, and I suspect will work very well for most people.

A small side-note, you really mean 5kW, not 5kwph. You could say 5kWhph (5 kilowatt-hour per hour), but that's just 5kW. kwph is a nonsensical unit which implies that the power output of the unit continues to increase as time goes on. It most assuredly is constant.

· · 4 years ago

I would rather charge directly from a NEMA 14-50 outlet without passing through an extra device. It is simpler, straight forward and cost nothing. It is also available in many locations.

· · 4 years ago

@Brian - Good suggestion. I made revisions that hopefully clarify the issue. Thanks.

· · 4 years ago

@Brad Berman


I know Tesla has perpetuated this myth for years, but 14-50's are *NOT* used for clothes dryers and in fact are not legal to be used with them unless the overcurrent protection is reduced to 30 amps at the serving panelboard. The dryer has no fusing of its own and depends on a legal installation necessitating the 30 ampere limitation.

Nema 10-30, or lately, since it is no longer legal in new installations to use the "Neutral" as the equipment ground for household appliances, 14-30, are used for household clothes dryers. I have *NEVER* seen for household use, an "Electric Dryer on Steroids", which is certainly legal to make, I just never saw multiple load dryers being sold for houses. Probably because they will exceed 36" and there is no way to get them physically in the basement.

Its a small detail, but I wonder why Tesla specified as their "Default" outlet, one with a Neutral since they are obviously not using it, as can be seen by their permission of Welder Outlets, which, incidentally is the Leviton default.

It would be nice if we could have an article that shows exactly what products work with which cars. The Rav4EV incompatibility article was a big step in this direction.

Some manufacturers of EVSE's don't even market a 30 amp unit in the US. Voltec is 15 amps, Pass & Seymour (LeGrand) is 16 amps. This is not so much of a limitation since GM appears to be standardizing on 3.3 kw as well as Via, Mitsubishi, Fisker, etc.
An individual homeowner may decide on a 30 amp charging docking startion (I call them charger docks), but HOA's and common areas of apartment buildings may decide to only have 15 or 16 amp charging stations.. Why? Because they don't want to pay high demand charges unnecessarily and therefore want to incentivise the tennant (and so does the serving utility, thats the reason for demand charges in the first place) to spread the charging activity over the entire nighttime.

A Landlord who decided to proivde landlord owned Rfid credit card enabled chargers for his tenant base could only hook up 5 or 6 30 amp units but could hook up 10 charger units if they were all like the Leviton 160's (16 amps), off of a simple 200 ampere single phase feeder. Granted it would not be THAT model, but an RFID enabled 15 or 16 amp unit would be wanted by a great deal of EV driving tennants under the general principle that "Something is better than Nothing".

· · 4 years ago

@Brian Schwerdt

Nobody's told me but since the LCS25 is also rebranded "Sun Country Highway" for our Canadian Friends, I suspect the reason for this model is that Canadian electric codes allow a 25 ampere fuse or circuit breaker on 12 gauge copper. Their standard appliance circuit.

Therefore, a 'continuous load' could run at 80% or 20 amps, and hence the 4.8 kw charger is born. So, although also sold in the US, its primarily a Canadian product.

· · 4 years ago

Why are you assuming everyone needs or wants a Level 2 EVSE. There was an article I read in the past week or so about how BEV owners are realizing they don't need to charge everyday. I read somewhere that (at least where the gov't wasn't paying for free ones) 30% of Leaf owners just use the 120 Level 1 EVSE that comes with the car. For me, and I drive over 68 miles per day, I just charge my 2012 Leaf overnight at home on my Level 1 (trickle-charge) and then on the same at home or work during the day. I drive more miles a day than 95% of Leaf owners, without a Level 2 EVSE. This perception that folks need to fork over the time and money for a Level 2 EVSE discourages folks from buying BEV. When people realize that the EVSE that comes with the car, and a standard three-prong outlet, can get the job done for most people, that will also cure the faux ailment, "range anxiety". 12,000+ miles and going strong.

· · 4 years ago


Yes you are absolutely corect that if you can get by without purchasing a Level 2 product, then that is great.. These companies also sell many level 1 products for roughly the same price, or even MORE, which totally confuses me. What comes standard with most cars is just fine, unless the customer permanently mounts his L1 charger that came with the car nicely and therefore wants to have second "portable" one in the car. Utilities would prefer you charge as slowly as you can consistent with getting you enough charge in time, and on larger installations ( say, 10 landlord owned EVSE's for an appartment complex) they will save money by limiting things to 16 amp charging docking stations due to limiting the demand charge.

My volt actually charges just fine at the default 8 amps 120 volts, although if I'm going out after dinner I will 'fast charge it' on the 240 EVSE so that I have enough for the evening without reverting to gasoline.

But if level 1 products do it for you, bully for you!

· · 4 years ago

@Bill Howland,

I have the LCS-25 from Clipper Creek. It is a great little product. Pretty compact and light and NEMA 4X rated enclosure. It is also on sale for $600 right now. I know that it also works down to 208V and never get hot. I like it a lot.

· · 4 years ago

Thanks for the kind word about ClipperCreek products. I did want to point out that you compared our commercial product to other residential products. Our residential LCS-25 is offered at $595, which makes it not only the best product on the market, but also one of the lowest priced.

· · 4 years ago

TL; DR. So, I didn't read if you mentioned the controversy over the VERY EXISTENCE of EVSEs.

If TESLA, I repeat, T E S L A, makes it so I don't need an EVSE, why am I going to be happy and believe that an EVSE is in any way a true technical requirement and not a way for legal gatekeepers to extort money from me?

Every single thing an EVSE does can and usually IS DONE by the vehicle's charger. There is no technical reason for the EVSE to exist as a separate device.



Tesla does not require an EVSE, neither does the Smart Electric Drive (with an electric drive train Tesla primarily designed). Thank God Leaf has a minimal "brick-in-the-cord" EVSE that can be upgraded to 240V very inexpensively by a third party.

Investigate this farce further, PluginCars, pelase.

· · 4 years ago

Anderlan, Tesla's mobile cord is every bit as much an EVSE as anyone elses. Please note there are several EVSEs that plug into outlets like the Tesla cord. The only difference is that you can buy various adapters from Tesla so you can plug in to more than just one NEMA type of outlet. With a little care you can make your own adapters so that you could plug just about any EVSE into various outlets too. The Tesla cord is also just as expensive as many of the other EVSEs on the market.

· · 4 years ago


Not much to investigate that hasn't been said here already many times. The reason for the EVSE is due to collusion between electrical equipment manufacturers and the National Electical Code (NFPA 70).

Its not such an unliveable situation as you portray

I was going to purchase a "evse - less" Universal Mobile connector for my roadster for $1500.

I wanted public station j1772 interoperability and the umc wont do that.

I bought a 30 amp evse for $725 and tesla's adapter j1772 for $750 instead. So I saved myself $25 and I got the public station charging capability I wanted all along.

So life really isn't all that bad.

· · 4 years ago

There's another home charger on the market now -

It can charge either Level I or Level II, depending on how you set it up and up to 240vac 30A for now. We have plans to increase the Amps in the future.

AND the best thing is the price - $675 plus shipping.

Check it out.

· · 4 years ago

As a New York real estate developer, I would like to put this a new building. Any suggestions?

· · 4 years ago

nyc hi,

Following (and supporting) Mauileaf's observations above, I would recommend to you to simply make sure every parking spot has access to a *regular* 15A 110V outlet. This will enable all residents to trickle-charge at their spots. It will also:

- be the cheapest installation option for you
- be the best value for your residents, since their daily recharge needs (most people drive <50 miles/day on most days) will be fully met at their parking spot without having to worry about fighting over a precious faster-charging spot every night
- be the best for electricity load, since much if not most of the charging will take place during late-night, low-load hours.

In addition, I would also install a pair of L2 chargers in a public location, accessible to both residents and visitors. Those are the ones discussed above in the post and most comments, costing around $500-2000 each depending upon the settings and brand. Given the rapid advance in EVs, they should probably be with the top capacity for L2 right now (so 50A plug protected by a 60A breaker for each). Depending upon your personal perspective you might choose

- To leave this as a contingency rather than an actual installation. I just returned from an extensive East Coast trip, and boy you guys are light-years behind the West Coast in EV market penetration. OTOH if you want to be part of the change, installing the spots right away would be a nice addition especially if you make them available to the public.
- Set them up to be fee-based. I don't know much about how this is done, but I'm sure many companies will be glad to walk you through the process - you might even get them to install the L2's for you for free or reduced price.

Disclaimer: Nissan Leaf has been our main car for the past 11 months. We bought it almost on a whim, and based on the online and marketing chatter we were sure we'd need an L2 charger. Fortunately, our home is a bit complicated for that, so before we got around to do it we'd already discovered that trickle-charging (110V plug, using the cable that comes with the car) would meet all our needs for nearly all the days. The people who really need a dedicated L2 at their home are a minority among EV drivers right now. At public locations it's a different matter - hence my advice to you to install a pair out front in your public parking area.

Good luck!

· · 4 years ago


Struggling with selection of unit. I have focus electric coming and have 20 amp 240 service already in garage (and a new run to panel is hard through finish basement) so I figure instead of going 32 amp wall unit I go 16 amp and instead of 3.5 - 4 hours I get 7-8 for full charge and all is well. (I need most of charge each day)

If I buy a 32 amp wall unit someone was telling me car charging circuitry is smart enough to know its a 20 amp circuit and limit to 16 amps. Is true? What will happen day I hook up 32 amp unit to 20 amp? Breaker trip? How to know? I can buy 16 amp wall unit but I need longer cord only available on 32 amp unit. Maybe I buy replacement part (cord) for 32 unit and install on 16? Compatible with longer cable is a mild concern.

Experience with this would be appreciated

· · 4 years ago

There are several 30 Amp chargers available on Home Depot's website for well below $1000. There are two below $750 and three below $850.

· · 4 years ago

The charger is actually built into the car. The discussions here are simply power sources. The chargers in the car have a rating in kW (kilowatts). It will adapt to the voltage and current supply that you plug it into. The best you can do is deliver to the car what it can handle. I believe the 2014 Ford Focus has a built in 6.7kW charger meaning at 240V it can take 27.9A. Thats why you want a 30A power source to maximize its charging capability. To answer your question in general, I would not wire a 30A power unit onto a 20A circuit because it will likely try to pull 30A and trip your breaker. I would ask this question to the specific manufacturer of the unit you are intending to buy.

· · 4 years ago

Another thing to consider is that your 120v garage outlets may have weak circuits. My home, for example, has all of the outside sockets, garage sockets, and most bathrooms on a single GFCI in an upstairs bathroom. If I'm charging the car and someone plugs in a hair dryer--boom. And the circuit must be pretty long. I measure a 10-volt drop using a Kill-A-Watt at the socket when charging my Leaf. The max drop is supposed to be 3%. I checked how the socket was wired. It was wired with the fast option of jamming the stripped wire into the hole on the back of the socket. This has caused problems elsewhere in my house. I rewired to the screw connector, but that didn't change the drop by much.

Note: If there's arcing when the cord is unplugged, that can lead to pitting of the plug blades. This increases resistance that can cause heating at the socket. I have seen a Chevy Voltec 120v EVSE plug that got pitted like this, and melted the plastic of several sockets before the owner notice. Always unplug at the car first. The J1772 standard is designed to avoid arcing by cutting power before the power wires disconnect as the J1772 connector is removed.

And that brings me to another point. Some commenters have criticized the EVSE as useless expense that is proven unnecessary by Tesla. Well, there are several good reasons for the EVSE:

1) Smart cord has power only when the car is connected (safety in wet areas; no arcing)
2) Negotiation between car and EVSE for maximum available current
3) Ground-fault interruption (the typical 240v socket does not have this!)
4) Cold Load Start Random start up (helps substation/neighborhood circuits after a power outage)

And as some posters noted, Tesla built much of this into the cord.

· · 4 years ago

In case you have not gotten the answer to your question: do not wire a 32 amp device to a 20 amp circuit. This will fail. The intelligence that limits the current a car will draw is between the EVSE and the car, not between the EVSE and the circuit. So if you installed a 32 amp on a 20 amp circuit, and plugged in a car that can use more than 20 amps, you will overload the circuit. A 32 amp EVSE requires a 40 amp circuit (NEC 80% continuous-load rule). But if you install a 16 amp EVSE on your 20 amp circuit, the car would limit its draw to 16 amps because that's the maximum that the EVSE will advertise to the car. I believe there are a few EVSE models that can be field modified to limit the capacity they advertise to the car, but these are at the very high end (70~90 amps) or build-it-yourself open designs.

Tesla builds this intelligence into their cord and the ends you can plug into it. Each end has a NEMA rating for voltage and current—the car adjusts accordingly. And, the operator can tell the car to use less than that, which is really cool for a lot of reasons.

As for the cord length, this is a major factor in the price of an EVSE. You may have found that buying the longer replacement cord is ~$200. Consider extending the circuit and mounting the EVSE as close as possible to the car's charging port. This will not only save you money, but will save you time cumulatively over the thousands of times you will plug in the car. And the cable and you will stay cleaner if it is not being dragged a long way across a garage floor.

I am very happy with my Schneider Electric 30 amp EVSE, and my 2012 Nissan Leaf with a 3.3KW charger. I bought a larger capacity EVSE for the possibility of getting a future car with a faster charger (as noted in the article above). I had two reasons for installing a hard-wired 240v EVSE: 1) not having to unpack/pack the 120v charger every charging cycle, 2) having a backup in case one of the EVSEs fails. The circuit is also on an off-peak meter, for which some power companies require the EVSE to be hard wired.

Note: the control box for my off-peak service is limited to 30 amps (designed for electric water heater). For higher current, the output of the control-box relay can be used to control a higher-rated relay. That’s an extra cost to consider.

· · 4 years ago

So what kind of wall is required? If I have a timber weatherboard garage with plaster interior walls will this not cause a fire risk with the high voltages that a part and parcel of an EV wall charger? Would I need brick walls?

· · 3 years ago

I have a stucco house with wood frame and drywall. no problem if all the above electrical needs are addressed.

· · 3 years ago

"If I buy a 32 amp wall unit someone was telling me car charging circuitry is smart enough to know its a 20 amp circuit and limit to 16 amps. Is true? What will happen day I hook up 32 amp unit to 20 amp? Breaker trip? How to know? I can buy 16 amp wall unit but I need longer cord only available on 32 amp unit. Maybe I buy replacement part (cord) for 32 unit and install on 16? Compatible with longer cable is a mild concern."

The car will adjust its power draw to whatever the charging station tells it, but the station must be configured properly for the electrical circuit. Most charging stations are not adjustable, so you must get a charging station that matches the available circuit. However, there are adjustable charging stations. The only commercial one I know of is the Siemens VersiCharge. It has an internal adjustment that allows the station to draw 6, 7.5, 15, 22.5, or 30 amps. You can find the installation manual here:

Strangely, the installation instructions say that you must size the wire and breaker for 30 amps. This pretty much defeats the purpose of the adjustment. In any case, you can set the VersiCharge to 15 amps and safely use it on a 20 amp circuit. A standard 30 or 32 amp charging station would trip the breaker when a vehicle that could draw more than about 18 amps were charging. The danger comes in when the breaker is defective and the wire between the charging station and the panel is undersized for the station. The wire could overheat and cause a fire.

· · 3 years ago


· · 3 years ago

There is at least 1 other adjustable EVSE (charging station), which happens to be the one I have been using with our Focus Electric for about 1 1/2 years. Used to be through spx, now looks like same device through Bosch, called "Power Xpress".
I re-set mine down, from 24 A. to 16 A., mainly because the connector seemed to be getting a bit warm to my hand. (I am an EE and like connections to stay cool.) The lower current may (perhaps) help the battery last a bit longer (?).
With your 20 A. service in garage, this 16 A. setting is fine. (Advice above about 80% de-rating for safety is good.)
The Focus will take either 16 or 24 A. just fine, depending on the EVSE it is connected to. The extra time to charge is OK with me.

· · 3 years ago

Here are a few items that the Siemens unit also features; amperage adjustment dial (limits the max charge) and a small I/o block that can be used to control versicharge by something else in your house (for the home automation guys). Lastly, Nema 4R rating for both indoor and outdoor installations.

· · 3 years ago


I like the idea of a dumb cable, but nobody seems to sell a SAE J1772 to Nema 14 dumb cable. Did you make your own (i.e. attach a Nema connector to an SAE J1772 cable)? Will most cars charge without the signaling protocol active?

· · 3 years ago

Very interesting and informative article, Brad, and great comments and guidance from all the techies. I'm building a house and therefore have a blank slate to design our garage to enable 2 plug-ins. Here's my question: should I get the electrician to install 2 NEMA 14-50 outlets for 2 EVSEs…since I have the option? I understand, from your debate in this comment stream as well as others on this site, that we can use the level 1 outlets in the garage for overnight charging, but should I set up the garage to have the capability for level 2 charging? Appreciate your thoughts!

· · 3 years ago

I had 110 charging for a few months for my volt and 2 weeks ago put in a clipper creek 240 EVSE. I am so happy with the quicker charging capabilities. My electrician pointed out that the 240 is cheaper for a really good "sciency" reason I am unable to pass on--- not big savings but savings nonetheless. If I was setting up a garage from scratch I'd go for it. My friend calls this the five most expensive words in English. "While we are at it."

· · 3 years ago

I Strongly recommend getting set up for Level 2, after you do some planning. (Level 2 is not just faster, but a bit more efficient and allows more possibility for automatically charging When you want it, such as when electricity cost is less. Also allows some cars to warm up while plugged in, which can be a real help.)
You should plan needs based on the car and the EVSE. For example, some do not need the 4 wires of a NEMA 14-50, so make installation cheaper and easier. (Mine is 3-wire, through a NEMA 6-50.)
Some are set up just for direct wire, not plug-in.
Plan also where you want the cord to coil up, and where it will rest while connected to the car (you don't want to trip over it).

· · 3 years ago

So just a QUICK QUESTION, can someone who has run a line for a 220 electric heater hook one of these things up? Does the units have INSTRUCTIONS on WHAT gauge wire to use and WHAT amp breaker to use? And any other pertinent info?

· · 3 years ago

Quick answer: yes.
But, it would be smart to learn about things like building codes for your area.
I found a licensed electrician to add new breakers + outlet for my garage, after I had picked the specific device. He had a good way of bending and installing proper conduit to a convenient location, for example.
Instructions are available online. Search (google) for EVSE and a manufacturer you are considering (Siemens, Bosch / spx, GE, ...). Many offer complete manuals to download. I like the spx (now through Bosch) manual I used.

· · 3 years ago

The Blink HQ is also available for sale. This residential EV charger offers charging 4xs faster than the cord that came with your EV, a delay timer to optimize charging rates, an 18 foot indoor/outdoor cable, and a $100 bonus credit for public Blink EV charging stations. Quantities are limited, so order yours today at

· · 3 years ago

I have a portable Leviton level 2 charger. True that Leviton is slightly more expensive but we have a cabin and I only had to buy one charger for both places. Have a 2011 Leaf with 30k miles.

· · 3 years ago

EMW JuiceBox Base Edition $448
60A / 15kW Level 2 charging - 2x faster than most EVSEs

This is cheap and offers higher power levels suitable for charging a Tesla or other longer range electric vehicle.

· · 3 years ago

Thanks for this very useful article. As you imply, the landscape for EVSE incentives is always shifting. For example, right now in southern California LADWP has two EVSE rebate programs available through 6/30/15 (subject to available funding), Anaheim Public Utilities has an EVSE rebate program for customers, and Chargepoint is accepting applications for one more week for its program to provide free EV Chargers for apartment buildings, condos and co-ops in the San Diego area (application deadline is 3/1/14).

At the federal level, the Alternative Fuel Vehicle Refueling Property Income Tax Credit is available for EVSEs placed in service before 1/1/14. However, the credit has expired and is not currently available for EVSEs placed in service after 12/31/13. At PlugIncentives we are researching available credits for EVSEs and EVs and providing updates on legislative incentive-related activities, including the possibility of Congress passing tax extender legislation to renew the Alternative Fuel Vehicle Refueling Property credit.

· · 3 years ago

I leased my 2013 Nissan Leaf in Jan. 2014, so I did not qualify for the tax rebate. However, I wanted to get a L2 charger for the added flexibility and convenience. I ended up buying the portable 20 amp Clipper Creek LCS-25P with a NEMA 6-30 plug for $549, and I couldn't be happier.

I got a quote from the dealer referred installer that was offering a "free" Bosch station. The quote was for $1,500, which would include a new breaker panel to make room for a dedicated 50 amp line, 15 feet of conduit to the station, and the hardwired Bosch station. That seemed a little steep and overkill for what I wanted.

I did a little on-line research for options. I have a gas dryer, so I have an available 30 amp line, which was for an electric dryer. However,the plug was old style without a ground. The portable Clipper Creek stations require a ground. I bought a NEMA 6-30 outlet for $15, 6 feet of grounding copper wire for $4, and a grounding clamp for $3. In three hours, I was able to replace the plug and ground it to the washer water pipe. I was halfway to my goal.

Because of demand, Clipper Creek had recently started to offer the portable station for 30 amp outlets. Thank you Clipper Creek for recognizing the niche. It arrived after one week instead of several days because it was back ordered. They called and were very apologetic. It didn't matter to me because it was a week-end project. That delay has probably gone away by now. Within 30 minutes of starting, it was installed and charging my car. It comes with 25 feet of cord, so it can charge my Leaf no matter where I park it in my 2 car garage. I can even park behind a car and reach outside my garage.

With the 20 amp station, full charging from square zero takes about 6 hours versus 4 hours for a 30 amp station. I charge starting at midnight to take advantage of lower night-time rates in the San Francisco area, but I have no issue reaching a full charge before morning. That saves me about $25 a month.Spending the $1,500 to rework the wiring just did not make sense.

All in all, I reached a happy compromise between cost and charging speed. And if we ever move, I won't lose my station. This solution won't work for everyone, but it is definitely one option to consider.

· · 3 years ago

Article is interesting and comments are too... but I don't understand how many volt and ampere your sockets carry, and I don't thimk the power provided by an EVSE depends just on EVSE!
In Italy we have 240V/16A mains, so how could I get any advantage from installing a 30A or 40A Evse?
What's the story in USA and Canada? I read about 240V EVSE connected to 120V/16A mains... but wouldn't they just provide 8A?

· · 3 years ago

In USA you usually need to install a new dedicated circuit to serve a 240V EVSE. The only common existing outlet that would be useful is an outlet for an electric clothes dryer, if it was in the garage. This is relatively common for California homes built in the 1960's and 1970's. That outlet would be 30A, which would only serve EVSE units of 24A and below.
The other relevant difference between USA and EU electrical systems is that USA uses circuit ratings that are based on intermittent use while EU uses continuous ratings. So, an American household outlet is commonly 120VAC 15A, which you can only draw 80%, or 12A for electric car charging. I believe in Italy and other EU countries you can pull the full 240V/16A continuously from existing household mains sockets. Just don't plug in a kettle that shares the same circuit.

· · 3 years ago

@Bill Howland - NEMA 14-50 outlets aren't normally used for home dryers in the US (or anywhere else I'm aware of), but electric stoves (a.k.a. ranges, cookers) that integrate both a cooktop and an oven usually run off a 120/240V 14-50R outlet; thus these are common. These are four-prong - hot, hot, neutral, and ground - allowing for either 240V (sometimes 208V) between the two hot wires or 120V between either hot and neutral.

So an EVSE is basically a fancy 240v extension cord that plugs into a 50A outlet and has a 30A fuse, with a gas-pump-shaped plug? THAT costs $700?

· · 3 years ago

I'm going to need to install my charger on an outside wall, and I'm concerned that leaving a 12' to 20' piece of copper wire dangling out in the open will be too tempting for a scrapper with a wire cutter. Is the theft of charging cables a problem? Does anyone know if there are there charging stations that have a locked enclosure for the cable?

· · 3 years ago

As a California state certified C10 electrical contractor we specialize in installations of electric vehicle charging stations in the San Fransisco and greater bay area. If any one needs any instalation help please give us a call.

Auto Charge Electric Inc
415 578 2401

· · 3 years ago

Where would be the best place to market solar electric with EVSE to reach the EV customers.
We are in Southwest Florida.

· · 3 years ago

Brad... Thanks very much for this excellent article. I wish I had this information two years ago when I bought my Volt because as a "newbie" to a plugin car, there learning curve was pretty steep and all the new jargon was nearly overwhelming. I made the big mistake when i bought my first EVSE, an SPX Xpress, installed by a professional electrician (I could have done it myself, I once built an airplane, installing the engine, electronic ignition, engine, fuel system-etc and flew it) but SPX would not offer a warranty if a customer didn't have a "pro" to the instal. The SPX started failing about 7 months into service and refused to honor their warranty (horror stories are on the internet about this disreputable company and they are no longer in business) but I replaced the SPX with a GE WattStation (I now have two at two residences we own and installed both GE WattSations myself) and I love the GE WattStations, but as I am looking for a third level 2 EVSE, I'll probably go with the Clipper Creek.

This is such a great article you have here that I'm going to provide the link on Facebook because lot's of folks out there just getting into a plug in car, need clarity on this subject.

· · 3 years ago

Tried the Bosch charger and it failed on me after a few charges. Installed the Aerovironment Charger and works perfect. Put in a 40amp breaker with 8 gauge wire. Drilled out the hole on the bottom and installed a dryer plug. Very easy install.
of General Electric WX9X35 4-wire Range Cord, 4-foot
1 of Leviton 279 50 Amp, 125/250 Volt, NEMA 14-50R, 3P, 4W, Flush Mounting Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Grounding, Side Wired, Steel Strap, Black
40 Amp Double-Pole Interchangeable Circuit Breaker
However how many feet of wire you need.
L1 and L2 your hot wires. Neutral not used. Ground green.

· · 3 years ago

I would like to double up on the importance of where the EVSE is mounted in the garage/parking place. In my garage I have the Schneider Electric EVLink mounted on the wall right next to the driver's side where I get out. So where the plug rests in the wall mount lines up exactly 1 foot away from the charge port on the driver's side of my Chevy Volt. So it takes exactly 5 seconds to plug in every time. I can imagine if it was on the other side of the garage and I had to walk the plug over every time it would be a hassle. I would probably get one of those tool retractors and hang it from the ceiling so I could just pull down the charge plug where it hangs just above the drivers side. So the closer you can get your plug to the actual charge port on the EV (every one of them has it in a different location - Volt = driver's side, Leaf = the nose) the easier it will be to plug in and the less hassle the better. Plugging in your EV should be WAY easier than pumping gasoline. It's one of the selling points to an EV!

· · 3 years ago

Why couldn't I purchase the proper plug for my car and wire it directly to a 240 junction? If the charger is built into the vehicle, all I would need to do is supply it with power? Or does the EVSE have some sort of protection hardware that would benefit me in the long run?

· · 3 years ago

@hidiver - It's not that simple. The J1772 plug is designed with several ingenious interlocks to allow safe charging when it's raining, to prevent drive-off's if the charging cable is plugged in, etc. If you like charging your car without being electrocuted, that's probably a benefit.

· · 2 years ago

Clipper Creek actually now has a 15amp 3.6kW EVSE, the LCS-20 available for $395.
It should be fine for a Volt or Leaf. It's going to cost a it $400 to have the wiring done by the same folks who installed our solar array. So about $800 total.

· · 2 years ago

In March 2014, I purchased and had an electrician install a Clipper Creek HCS-60. It's used mostly on weekends for our Leaf. This last weekend, 12/14/14 it failed. I talked to a very nice technical support person at CC who offered to send out a new unit and take a return. Up till the unit failed we've been very happy with the charging unit. However, given the electrical simplicity of the unit we were very surprised and disappointed when the unit failed just 9 months after initial installation and approximately 50 uses. We will have to pay an electrician to uninstall the faulty unit and install a new unit – this will more than double what we originally paid for. Offered as food for thought before you purchase & install your own charging unit.

· · 2 years ago

Is that installer putting the charger under a window? I am pretty sure that in most places you cannot place electrical equipment under an operational window. Since it looks like it is open, i have to believe it is operational.

· · 2 years ago

We read this article as we were considering the purchase of an EV and were frustrated with the seemingly endless choices, high cost, and lack of apparent utility. Luckily, the author included the link to EVSE upgrade. We purchased this upgrade for our factory cable and plug into the dedicated NEMA 6-20 that I had installed years ago for my table saw. We've been thrilled with our upgraded cable, have recommended it to friends, and they've been thrilled with their upgraded cables. When we buy a longer range EV, I'll replace my NEMA 6-20 with a NEMA 14-50 and buy an adapter or new plug for my tablesaw. More recently, I've installed a NEMA 14-50 in the garage of each of my rental properties. A NEMA 14-50 is economical (only incrementally more expensive than lower capacity circuits since most of the cost of an electrician is labor), easy, meets the needs of any EV owner, and provides other utility (RV power, 240VA power tools via an adapter, etc.). Tesla vehicles are delivered to charge from NEMA 14-50 and I suspect that this is the direction the EV industry will eventually go as more and more people realize how unnecessary the wall-mounted EVSEs are,not to mention complete lack of utility beyond charging an EV.

Those advocating Level 1 only are violating a fundamental design philosophy to design a system to the worst case scenario. Maybe Level 1 works for them, maybe it works most of the time, but it doesn't meet the needs of an EV owner all of the time. I have drained most of my Leaf's battery on a Saturday morning multiple times and each time I've done that, I've had my Leaf back to 80% by evening. Could we survive with Level 1 only? Yes, but why do that to yourself? If you have only 120V in your garage and think you can survive with Level 1 only, great. Try that for a while and see how it works. But if you are installing new service, and certainly if it's for employees, visitors, etc., there are not words strong enough to describe my recommendation to install at least Level 2. The increased cost is not significant, but the consequences of installing only Level 1 are very significant. Don't do that to yourself or your visitors/employees.

· · 2 years ago

I agree with jflogel. Ive had my 2015 leaf for 5 months, and it is a great commuting car with the 110v charger. I charge to about 85% charge, drive 50 miles round trip to about 35%, and charge at about 5 miles of range per hour (10-11 hours of charging) for the next day. HOWEVER, I have loved using the chargepoint stations (240v) where I can charge 60 miles of range in 2 hours... I just got my garage electric service upgraded and have a 30 amp charger (level 2). I AM IN HEAVEN! I can commute to work, get home, charge for 2 hours, and then take a nice long drive to the beach (or anything) right after dinner! When I come home, 2 more hours, and i am set for the next day! I can drive 60-70 miles with a level 2 charger (with a fast turn around time of only 2 hours wait in between charging). I think that no one wants to wait 8-10 hours between uses of their car. What if you need to used the car again unexpectedly? I think that THAT makes the electric car a really practical car rather than a science experiment.

· · 2 years ago

HELP!!! Any advice on selling your home after you have installed the 240 charging station? Really hope another EV owner in VA will buy my house!

· · 2 years ago

quick question. I am thinking of shipping my nissan leaf to africa. can the standard EVSE that comes with the car be pluged into a 240v 30a mains or household socket?

· · 2 years ago

I would put the infrastructure of a 40 amp service up, but not a 40 amp charger unless you have an EV that supports 6.6kw charging.

Tandem breakers can be used to free up the two slots needed for a 240 breaker. Four 15 or 20 amp breakers can be changed for two tandems.

I would run 6 gauge 4 conductor wire, along with a 10 gauge 3 conductor, to allow for a 220 charging station and a dedicated 20 amp socket to run your 120 volt charger, if needed.

You have a choice of either NEMA 14-50, (50 amp), 14-30 (30 amp) or hardwiring the charger. If you use a NEMA socket, you can undersized the breaker (40 or 20 amp), but mark the socket as "40 or 20 amp service/breaker. Don't undersized the wire!

Use the 10 gauge wire to run a weather resistant GFCI 20 amp dedicated wall socket, in case you need 120 volt to charge your EV.

Use a GFCI breaker for the 220 in the breaker panel, if you can.

· · 2 years ago

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· · 1 year ago

I have solar, and my power company is gradually forcing all residential customers onto TOU rates. So it's very important to me that the EVSE starts charging at midnight and notifies me if it stops charging for any reason. To me, this seems to mean that I must have a wifi-enabled charger, or at least a programmable charger. I don't imagine my situation is unique, at least I know that everyone in my city will be forced into TOU billing.

Are there EVSE's with timer control that don't have wifi? Do some cars alert my cell phone if charging stops? If so, which ones? Is it safe to put a 220v timer on the outlet and plug the EVSE into that? Are there Wifi capable timers that can detect whether power is being drawn? What's the best strategy and equipment for this situation?

· · 1 year ago

Have you updated this list recently (although I realize prices and products haven't changed much for a while)? What do you think of the new EVSE from ChargePoint?

· · 1 year ago

Lol,what a so professional review about home ev charger that we learn a lot and do know how to pick up a home ev charger preferred.
I work in a online shop named onu-mall which is a leading company cooperating with retailer,dorppshiper and wholesaler,we are specializing in electronic products at considerably discounted price including cell phone car charger and self balancing scooter and cell phone accessories including iPhone case and charging stand,Apple Watch band and stand, selfie stick monopod etc,we also launched practical publications including how to pick up a reliable car charger at blog of onu-mall.

· · 1 year ago

From what I can see a 6.6 kw Leaf will throw the breaker on a 16 amp EVSE. So you must match the EVSE, breakers and the vehicle being charged to the maximum amperage of the vehicle. In my experience the EVSE is a dumb appliance that will provide power over the rated capacity of the circuit and blow the breakers. .

· · 1 year ago

Hello all. Not sure if anyone still reads this but I'll try to throw out some knowledge to you all.

First off to those saying they are just gonna plug a cord into a 240v NEMA 14-50 on a 20/30/40/50a circuit, I HIGHLY advise against doing this. You are literally trusting your vehicle to a $15 circuit breaker. And good luck explaining that to the dealership why your charging port melted or car caught on fire because u didn't wanna drop a few hundo on a legit EVSE. I will tell everyone this.

Second, EVSE & Install. If you try to cheap out and get a 16a EVSE (3.3 kWh) charger for a car that can take a 30a (7.2 kWh) load you are asking for trouble. It literally will cost you $150-200 more to get a 30a model. Just spend the $$$ and do it right the first time. Doing this will ensure its your ONLY TIME you will need to do this. Unless of course you move or technology improves and cars start taking higher amperage. But that's not going to be any time real soon. The average price I see across the country For installation is between $800-1400. The cost is determined by materials, labor hours, and permit cost. Keep this in mind also. When an electrician pulls a permit to complete the install they will most likely need to be present for the Final Inspection to pass the permit. These hours are added to labor hours. Anything the electrician does that involves your install will count towards labor hours. Including drive time, getting the permit, paperwork back at the office, getting materials, and actual labor hours. The average price an electrician charges per hour is appx. $125. My pet peeve's are when someone thinks that electricians charge too much or that their install is the easiest install ever. "It's only 3 feet from the panel" famous last words. LOL. People, remember this. The line from your Breaker Box to your EVSE is NEVER, EVER, a straight line. Even if the EVSE is going 3 feet away from the Breaker Box in your garage, that's not LINEAR FOOTAGE. The electrician needs to follow code, and secondly needs to make sure the install doesn't look like crap. Please take my advice and get a licensed, certified, and insured electrician. Getting your buddy down the street or your brother in law/father/best friend/uncle bob or whoever that says they can do it for half the price, case of beer, whatever the cost is dangerous. You are installing a 240 volt circuit in your home. It's friggin dangerous. Number one, 240 volts can kill you or the "Expert you know". Number two, IF it's incorrectly installed and God forbid a catastrophe like a fire happens, you are screwed. You Home Owners Insurance is going to investigate why there was a fire and see you had an unlicensed installer who DID NOT pull a permit do the work. Then guess what. You are up a creek without a paddle. Just spend the money for the professionals to do it correctly. You will probably spend between $1,000-$2,000 for the whole package. But as I will mention later there are Tax Credits available to alleviate some of the cost.

Third, there seems to be some confusion as to how to calculate charge time. This is very simple. Let's take a Chevy Volt and a BMW i3. Chevy Volt has a 17.1 kWh battery and the BMW i3 has a 24 kWh battery. The Volt (and ALL OTHER GM VEHICLES 2017 or older, except the new Bolt) have a maximum charge at 15.5amps or 3.3 kWh. So take your battery size 17.1 then divide by 3.3 and waa laa. 5.1 hours and u have a fully charged Volt. Now to the BMW. This car has the ability to actually charge at 7.6 kWh (32amps) but it is not advertised. It's advertised at 7.2 so using the same math 24/7.2 and u get 3.5 hours. On a side note I would only install a TOU (Time Of Use) meter if it is ABSOLUTELY necessary. LADWP makes it affordable for LA residents in Cali. But most Electricians will charge $600-$1000 to JUST install the second TOU meter. Add that to the EVSE and the install cost for the EVSE and it gets pricey. The addition of the TOU meter is essentially installing a brand new complete electric service to your home. It usually requires a small breaker box to be installed and that's where the EVSE gets its power from. What you can do instead is see if your Electric Company offers a WHOLE HOME TOU rate plan. The TOU rate plan will ONLY be effective if your house is generally empty during the day. The On-Peak rates are usually pretty high. But the Off-Peak times make it very tempting to switch.

Fourth, available chargers. Seems like everyone and their brother is getting into this game. For me if I'm going to plug something in to my $35k+ vehicle It's not gonna be something that isn't UL approved (I.E. Juicebox). The big names are Aeroviornment, Clipper Creek, Bosch, and ChargePoint. Of these companies Bosch has been around the longest (over 100 years). Yes there are other brands that are less expensive, but again if I can spend a couple hundred bucks more on an EVSE and know the company will still be there if the perverbial crap hits the fan, I'll gladly pay for that peace of mind. The funniest thing is when people ask me should they get a charger with the bells and whistles. Ask yourself this, why do you need it? Why do you need a charger with a timer? There is only one car that doesn't offer a delayed charge feature. Mercedes. All others allow you to set the times you can charge the vehicle. Being networked for home use. Why? If you are really interested in how much power your charger is using then spend $100 max and get a simple wireless submeter. Also, having all these other bells and whistles added to these EVSE's is just another thing to fail.

Fifth, incentives. Finally the fun stuff. There are so many incentives out there in so many states besides the federal incentive for the purchase/lease of the car to help offset the cost of the EVSE and the install.
Here are a few key ones. If you are interested to see more go to the Department Of Energy website and choose your state and then you will see all available. These incentives below are only for the install and purchase of an EVSE. Not vehicle related.

All United States: This tax credit was extended in December 2015 to extend through calendar year 2016. Residential, 30% Tax Credit (NOT WRITE OFF so it's actual money back) of the total cost for the EVSE AND Install (up to $1,500 max tax credit)
All United States: This tax credit was also extended in December 2015 to extend through calendar year 2016.Businesses, 30% Tax Credit (NOT WRITE OFF so it's actual money back) of the total cost for the EVSE AND Install (up to $30,000 max tax credit)
Cali: LADWP the original offer was $750 rebate towards the cost of an EVSE (when installed) and a bonus $250 if you install the TOU meter. The bonus $250 is in the form of a bill credit. The $750 is an actual check they send you. This program expired on 12/31/2015. They are allegedly announcing a new plan on 4/1/2016. From what I have been told this will be very similar if not the same as the previous rebate offer. We will not know for a few weeks. But the install will require a permit to be pulled (cost is $59.20) and LADWP will inspect the completed install to verify its correct and approve the rebate.
There are more in Cali but I'm kinda trying to keep it simple here.
New York: This is the best one in the country by far and it is effective from 1/1/2013-12/31/2018 Residential and Businesses: 50% Tax Credit on your State Taxes of the total cost (up to $5,000) for the EVSE and the install. How awesome is that!!!
Maryland: I can't remember the Business one but for Residential: 50% rebate check (up to $900) for the EVSE purchase and install.

I'm new to this site but I will gladly answer any questions anyone has. Email me anytime Also I will write a post about specific EV's pros and cons in the EV section. I hope this info will help people out.


· · 1 year ago

Lous, what are you referring to?

· · 1 year ago

@shrek24 Thank you for your post. It was helpful since I'm in the process of getting an EVSE for my Townhome p, and was wondering where to look for state or local credits.

· · 1 year ago

Hello Kat

Check out this website for the available incentives. This is most of the available incentives in the country. And it is actually kept current because it is government run. Well I say current but it may be a month or 2 before any updates are posted.

· · 1 year ago

I feel really dumb asking this question, so please forgive. Do we have universal plugs (the plugs that go from the EVSE to the car. In other words, are those plugs common to all EVs? Can any EV go to any EVSE?

· · 1 year ago

For Canadian shoppers I thought I would mention the EV Duty line of made in Canada EVSEs.

I just purchased a 2016 Leaf and agonized over which EVSE to buy. After a great deal of research I opted to buy an EV Duty EVC30T made by Elmec. At C$729 (C$739 with NEMA 6-50 plug) it was well priced. It is a basic 30 Amp unit and very solid. The plug in version that I purchased is sold as portable and truly is. The wall mount allows for easy removal and a lock mount means it is portable only when unlocked. It includes a 25 foot charging cord. The unit is very sturdy and rugged feeling. I expect it to last forever.

These EVSEs are made in Quebec and ship free. Mine shipped the same day and arrived in less than a week. The fact that they only charge an extra $10 for the plug in model versus the hard wired model made me warm and fuzzy about the company and made me think they weren`t trying to gouge me. The warranty is 3 years. I live in Vancouver so temperature extremes are not an issue but the unit is designed to work in very cold Canadian winter conditions. The cords are made from a material that is flexible in very cold temperatures.

I have written this post because many EVSE round ups miss this line of EVSEs and they are first rate, made in Canada and well priced. I love mine.

· · 1 year ago

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· · 50 weeks ago

When we will see more home EV charger in our country.
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· · 37 weeks ago

I found a licensed electrician to add new breakers + outlet for my garage, after I had picked the specific device. He had a good way of bending and installing proper conduit to a convenient location, Chaussures Yeezy Boost 350 V2

· · 23 weeks ago

Do we have universal plugs (the plugs that go from the EVSE to the car. In other words, are those plugs common to all EVs?

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· · 21 weeks ago

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· · 18 weeks ago

I just purchased a 2016 Leaf and agonized over which EVSE to buy. After a great deal of research I opted to buy an EV Duty EVC30T made by Elmec. At C$729 (C$739 with NEMA 6-50 plug) it was well priced. It is a basic 30 Amp unit and very solid. The plug in version that I purchased is sold as portable and truly is. The wall mount allows for easy removal and a lock mount means it is portable only when unlocked. It includes a 25 foot charging cord. The unit is very sturdy and rugged feeling. I expect it to last forever.

These EVSEs are made in Quebec and ship free. Mine shipped the same day and arrived in less than a week. The fact that they only charge an extra $10 for the plug in model versus the hard wired model made me warm and fuzzy about the company and made me think they weren`t trying to gouge me. The warranty is 3 years. I live in Vancouver so temperature extremes are not an issue but the unit is designed to work in very cold Canadian winter conditions. The cords are made from a material that is flexible in very cold temperatures.

I have written this post because many EVSE round ups miss this line of EVSEs and they are first rate, made in Canada and well priced. I love mine.

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· · 9 weeks ago

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· · 7 weeks ago

I bought the AeroVironment charger from the dealership (with a Chevy Bolt). I called to schedule installation, give them payment information, fill out a questionnaire (where is the charger going, can your home electrical support the installation, etc.). I think I'm ready to go then they send me a contract to sign. They already contacted the local electrician, who sent me an e-mail. I know a lot of people don't read those but I do, and among other things it basically disclaimed any warranty, required to to file legal claims in California (I live on the East Coast, the flight alone would cost as much as the charger). So I cancelled the install, and now I have to fight them to take the charger back. Long story short - don't buy the AeroVironment charger. Thankfully this guide has other recommendations.

New to EVs? Start here

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  3. Buying Your First Home EV Charger
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