Mini E Going Strong After 1,000 Recharges

By Tom Moloughney · April 06, 2011

Mini E Plugged In

I've plugged in my Mini E a thousand times, literally.

One of the cool things about being in the Mini E trial lease program is that I can basically do what I want with the car. When the program ends this fall, I just hand back the keys and I’m not liable for anything. That’s allowed me to do things with the car that I wouldn’t necessarily do if I owned it, like: frequent deep discharges; driving it when the battery temperature was extremely high; racking up 54,000 miles in 22 months; and charging it constantly.

All of these actions will most certainly bring on early degradation, something I would not want to do to a car I paid for. However this is a test car, and we have BMW’s blessings to drive it and charge it as hard as we want without worrying about the consequences. In this way, we all learn about the limits of this electric car.

Mini E Gauges in Cold and Hot Weather

I have recorded driving in temperatures range from a blistering hot to below zero. These snapshots show a range from -2 to 116 degrees.

BMW confirmed that I have the most miles of all the 612 Mini Es produced, by a long shot—probably 20,000 miles more than anyone else. I have only had the car for about 660 days so I charge it 1.5 times per day. I cannot imagine anyone has charged another Mini E even close to 1,000 times. I have basically driven it the equivalent of what a normal driver would over the course of three years—if you figure the average person drives 15,000 per year and charges their EV once a day.

Data Driven

Mini E Range Data

Over the course of 1,000 charges, I've averaged nearly 90 miles per charge.

Every time I plug the car in I record the miles driven, amp hours per 100 miles used, estimated remaining range, outside temperature, and a few other things. I have a lot of data on the range of the car and now that I’ve charged it more than 1,000 times I thought I would share the range information with the Plugincars.com community, especially since I see so many people here ask about battery longevity and degradation, as well as cold weather performance.

Some of you may remember a few months back when I took offense to an article written in the Washington Post where Charles Lane wrote that an EV can lose up to 50 percent of its power with a 10 degree drop in temperature. My response? That’s absurd. I have the data—complied from 22 months of driving the car 54,000 miles—that proves it. I have recorded driving in outside temperatures from 105 to -6 degrees.

I broke up the data into two groups: the first year and the second year. I have only had it for 10 months of the second year so certain temperature groups—like 60 to 70 degrees—didn’t have as many data entries for the second year. Still, with over 1,000 entries, I think it’s a pretty reliable sample. I drive the car hard, mostly highway miles—70 to 75 mph unless I really need to stretch the range. I use the heater when it’s cold and the A/C when it’s hot. I charge my cell phone and have a GPS plugged in all the time. I don’t drive it to see how far I can get it to go. I just drive it like I would any other car.

18 Miles Past Zero

I have never actually driven the car until it stopped so the range is really an estimate. Plus, the car will still drive 10 miles to 20 miles past zero range remaining. It’s a built-in safety that BMW decided to offer. When the car actually says zero miles remaining, you still have at least 10 miles left. The furthest I have driven past zero was 18 miles. On that day I completed a 130.1 mile single-charge drive. When you really have only about 4 miles left a large battery icon appears and the car goes into reduced power or “limp mode” that’s when it’s really time to get to where you’re going. I have only seen the icon 5 times so far, coincidentally the fifth time was this morning.

Please remember the Mini E is a test vehicle, with really no thermal management to speak of other than a couple of fans that blow cabin air over the battery modules. In fact, in the summer when it’s really hot outside, the batteries can get so hot that they won’t accept a charge until they cool down and the car can even go into reduced power mode to keep them from really overheating. Even though I think it’s a fantastic car, it’s not a polished, production ready vehicle and lacks a more sophisticated thermal management system. Please feel free to ask questions, I’ll be checking back to answer.

About the author

Tom recently completed his 2 1/2 year stint in BMW's MINI-E trial lease program. He was the first retail customer of a BMW ActiveE and was presented the keys to the car by BMW North American President, Ludwig Willisch on January 13th, 2012. The ActiveE is currently his primary daily-driving car.

Tom is an passionate EV advocate as well as a proponent of US energy independence. Tom ...

Full bio · 703 posts

Comments

· Tom Moloughney · 1 year ago

One thing I want to clarify. In the two pictures of the SOC display above, the one on the right shows a battery temperature of 116 degrees and the one on the left shows the ambient temperature being -2. The one on the right has a warning icon that comes on if the battery temperature gets above 115 degrees, if it gets much higher, the car goes into reduced power mode in an effort to cool down the batteries. It will not accept a charge if the batteries are this overheated.

On the day I took this picture, it was 101 degrees outside and I just completed a 35 mile trip of all highway driving with the A/C on full blast the whole time.

· Anonymous (not verified) · 1 year ago

Great article! BMW’s money was well spent! But we are not here to praise Tom. We are here to ask questions. You say: “That’s allowed me to do things with the car that I wouldn’t necessarily do if I owned it, like: frequent deep discharges; driving it when the battery temperature was extremely high; racking up 54,000 miles in 22 months; and charging it constantly.” - Nissan may have already given the answers in the manuals that I agitated so hard to have put online (and then haven’t thoroughly digested yet.) But:
1. What is the upper limit of remaining power to avoid entering deep discharge territory on the LEAF? I assume this can be read or directly inferred from a gauge on the instrument panel?
2. A related question is when is it best to charge if my goal is maximizing battery life? I’m assuming “constantly” is not the answer.
3. Finally, you mention that driving when the battery temperature is extremely high isn’t a great idea. Is that temperature mostly a function of outside ambient air temperature or can you drive a battery-powered car a few miles before the battery temperature builds? If so, a rough estimate please?

Thanks again. Great article(s)!

· EVNow · 1 year ago

Tom, Can you explain how you estimated the range (miles driven + range left on the dash ?).

Also,
- Did you group the est range by temperature, seperating out what you noted even on a single day (say morning & afternoons would be different temperatures bands) ?
- Do you have miles/kwh figures ? Can you post them ...
- Do you have miles/kwh (at the wall) figures ?

See the stats I'm suggesting Leaf owners post here ...

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=3207

· Tom Moloughney · 1 year ago

Anon:
1) I am not familiar with the LEAF as far as what would be considered deep discharge, perhaps EVNow can help with that. I'm not even sure if the LEAF has a 24kWh pack or if 24kWh is usable and the pack is larger.
2) Sure, the more you drive and charge and EV, the more of the battery life you are using up. I've been told it's probably best not to always charge to 100%(which I do). However there are so many different Li ion batteries now I don't think there is one simple answer.
3)The MINI-E has a primitive battery cooling/heating system. The batteries heat up during use and while charging and are always hotter than the ambient temperature. I believe they perform the best and will last the longest if kept between 65 and 85 degrees. This is why it is best to have an active thermal management system that keeps the batteries at the optimal operating temperature regardless of the outside temperature. Prolonged exposure to high temperatures (above 105 or so degrees) will certainly shorten the batteries life.

BTW, I'm not asking for praise, I haven't done anything other than drive the car and record the data!

· ex-EV1 driver · 1 year ago

@anonymous,
Let me take another stab at your questions based on my experience and from talking with experts about Li-ion batteries:

1) Li-ion batteries generally prefer to be about half charged. The more time you spend above or below half charge, the better. Of course, there's a fairly wide band around that point where it really doesn't matter but as you go above ~80% and below ~20% it starts putting a bit of wear on the battery and above ~90% and below ~10%, it really wears on the battery.
I have no idea whether Nissan will even let you get above that '90% or below 10%. Their computer could shut you off before you get to those regions altogether.
Not having received my Leaf yet, I can't speak for it specifically but I suspect there's a 'yellow' or similar indicator that your getting towards low SoC. For maximum life you want to charge it when it gets to that point. We'll have to assume that Nissan intelligently selected that point.
2) As far as when to charge: I suspect you should probably try to charge to 80 as often as you can unless you really don't drive it very much. My understanding is that there is an 80% charge option that you can set. If you want to maximize battery life, you should probably do those 80% charges most of the time. Others who may plan to use the Leaf for commuting should probably be sure that you aren't assuming you'll have to go above 80% every day if you want to maximize battery life. This may mean that you want to find (or install) a charging station at work - it is probably cheaper to spend a couple hundred $ installing an outlet at work and paying them $0.50 per day fore the electrons than replacing a battery pack.
3) I'll second exactly what Tom says about temperature. I don't know enough about the Leaf yet to know any better. Let's see what some of the pioneers in Phoenix or Las Vegas experience.

· Tom Moloughney · 1 year ago

EVNow:
The car displays the "estimated remaining range" at all times. I really don't look at it at all, other than to record it when I'm recording my data. The SOC is really all that I need to look at. From the SOC, I know how far I can go, the car really doesn't.
To get an estimate of how far the car would have gone, I calculate the % of battery it took to drive 1 mile:
miles driven/(beginning SOC - ending SOC)
So lets say I drove 75 miles and the ending SOC was 22%:
75/(100-25) so for this trip, I drove .9615 mile for every % used And I would record a 96.2 mile range. If I drove 38 miles and had 47% SOC remaining, I would record a range of 71.7

I do average the outside temp. If I drove a little at 75 and then a little later and it was 79, I record 77. It's pretty accurate and always from the same day of driving.

I don't have official kWh/mile data. The MINI gauge gives us amp hours per 100 miles driven and I need do do some math with the voltage of the car to get to kWh/mile. I don't have a separate meter for my home EVSE, but I do have a TED (the energy detective) and I can monitor the chargers usage. I've done it only a few dozen times and my figures show I get about 3.2 to 3.6 miles per kWh (at the wall). This would be in line with what is expected for the car. It's not an overly efficient EV, since it's powerful and not really aerodynamic. I can tell you it is an absolute blast to drive though. A friend of mine Michael Thwaite, owns a Tesla Roadster and leases the MINI-E and he says he prefers driving the MINI-E.

· Tom Moloughney · 1 year ago

"Let's see what some of the pioneers in Phoenix or Las Vegas experience"

Yes, I am really curious about the LEAF's hot weather & cold weather performance. I really like the LEAF, and want to believe the passive thermal management system they are using is up to the task, but I'm still very concerned about it in temperature extremes. (really above 90 and below 40 degrees)

I am anxious to hear reports from LEAF owners in these driving conditions.

· Peder Norby (not verified) · 1 year ago

Tom,
Really good post with great data.

I would just add that my experience is the very much the same although I don’t track every charge and our temperature fluctuations are not as great in So-Cal. I would also add that the range indicator and state of charge gauge in the Mini-E is one rock solid reliable instrument. In my Gem e4 and I’m reading in the leaf as well, the gauge is jumping all over the place.
The Mini-E has it mastered and it is just as dependable as a traditional gas gauge. Credit to AC Propulsion and BMW for getting that right.
Cheers
Peder Mini-E #183, 27,000 miles

· Laurent J. Masson · 1 year ago

Impressive results, and impressive driving, congratulations.
That was a great battery test, with the biggest flaw being that you can't charge if it's too hot. I'm sure BMW has already sorted out a way to correct this. Also, the ActiveE will have different cells so it will absolutely get better.

· Tom Moloughney · 1 year ago

Laurent: Yes, the ActiveE and the i3 will both use a new larger format cell that was developed by SB-Limotive. These new Lithium-ion cells will be using a nickel-manganese-cobalt chemistry. Both the ActiveE and the i3 will have an active thermal management system, something BMW has claimed they believe is necessary on production EV's.

The passive thermal management on the MINI-E is it's true weakness. It simply cannot keep the batteries warm enough in the winter or cool enough when it's very hot in the summer. A few times I had to let the car sit for a while to cool off before I could charge it. Luckily it never really held me up because I was working and could wait a while before I plugged in. I really only need about 30% SOC to make it home from work (31 miles) so most times I really didn't even need to charge it when it was really hot, I'd just park it and go to work.

· Tom Moloughney · 1 year ago

If anyone is interested in the battery & drivetrain that will be in the i3, I have information and pictures of it on my blog: http://bmwi3.blogspot.com/2011/03/bmw-i3-light-weight-means-less-energy....

· EVNow · 1 year ago

@Tom "but I'm still very concerned about it in temperature extremes. (really above 90 and below 40 degrees) "

I can talk about below 40. Leaf battery doesn't seem to have any problems - though the efficiency/range suffers because of heater usage.

· EVNow · 1 year ago

@Anonymous (not verified)

1. What is the upper limit of remaining power to avoid entering deep discharge territory on the LEAF? I assume this can be read or directly inferred from a gauge on the instrument panel?

Generally don't go below "Battery Low" indicator.

2. A related question is when is it best to charge if my goal is maximizing battery life? I’m assuming “constantly” is not the answer.

Nissan suggests charging to 80% to maximize battery life. I charge to 80% on weekdays and 100% on weekends.

If you are worried about battery life, lease. That is what I did.

3. Finally, you mention that driving when the battery temperature is extremely high isn’t a great idea. Is that temperature mostly a function of outside ambient air temperature or can you drive a battery-powered car a few miles before the battery temperature builds? If so, a rough estimate please?

I've not seen any reports of Leaf battery getting hot. Given different chemistry of Leaf's battery (and low internal resistance) compared to Mini-E, I doubt it would ever be a problem unless you leave it in a desert on a hot day (more than 120 deg, IIRC).

· Tom Moloughney · 1 year ago

EVNow: Reduction in range is what I was referring to when it gets cold outside, not any other problems. It took me a while to realize that it's not just the use of the heater that was hurting my efficiency, it's that the batteries simply don't release the stored energy as well when they are cold.

I did some experiments where I dressed really warmly in 20 degree weather and drove all day without using the heater or defroster at all. My range was still way less than it would be if it was 60 degrees outside. I realized that it's not just that you are using more energy with the heater, the batteries simply don't work as well when they get cold.

Does the LEAF allow you to monitor the battery temperature? If so I would love if you could record the battery temp as compared to the ambient temp and your range once it gets hot this summer. The LEAF's that have been purchased and leased here still haven't been exposed to summer temperatures.

I hope you don't think I don't like the LEAF or want it to fail, nothing could be further from the truth. I really want it to be a huge success, I'm just curious to see how it fares in temperature extremes.

· Anonymous (not verified) · 1 year ago

@EVNow - the 8 year warranty on the battery has calmed my anxieties on that score. If I get 8 years out of it I'll be happy. Neverthless, I'd be interested in the math of lease vs. purchase. I intend at the end of the lease to walk away with the car. How much extra would that cost me if I leased vs. purchased? Also, are there any 'tricks' in the battery warranty that indicate I should be more concerned? Also, also... ditto Tom's question:
"Does the LEAF allow you to monitor the battery temperature?"

· Jim McL (not verified) · 1 year ago

There should not be any degradation of the Mini E battery from charging it to what the gauge calls 100%, because the Mini E has a 35 kwh battery capacity, but they only let you use about 28 kwh.

The Tesla normally limits the battery capacity to extend the life, but Tesla gives you an over ride switch that lets you use more battery capacity for occasional long trips. I believe the E Box also allows this.

If Nissan suggests limiting charging to 80%, I wonder what buffer they have built in.

· Glacius17 · 1 year ago

Tom, this is a GREAT article. Thank you very much for sharing this data with us!

· Tom Moloughney · 1 year ago

@Glacius: I see so many people ask about range in relation to temperature and how long do batteries last? You cannot apply this data to another car because of different battery compositions, different thermal management and even driving and charging behavior, but it does give some insight to how an EV without any real thermal management will hold up in various temperatures and after 1,000 charges and 54,000 miles. I would expect production EV's to perform at least as well.

· EVNow · 1 year ago

@Tom "Reduction in range is what I was referring to when it gets cold outside, not any other problems. It took me a while to realize that it's not just the use of the heater that was hurting my efficiency, it's that the batteries simply don't release the stored energy as well when they are cold."

To restate, I don't know whether range is reduced purely because of the cold, yet. I know it reduces because of heater. Ofcourse, since Leaf doesn't show direct SOC%, it would be difficult to really tell, except by nothing the "remaining miles" over a few months.

Theoretically I've read a lot about why the range would reduce in cold weather because of apparent loss of capacity. But, at the same time, as you drive the battery heats up and that should reduce the losses.

BTW, Leaf will have a "blanket" when sold in cold weather states - and that should help any loss of capacity in the cold. But, full active thermal management in Volt hasn't had much of an effect. So, who knows.

"I hope you don't think I don't like the LEAF or want it to fail, nothing could be further from the truth."

Not at all. I know we are all on the same side here.

· EVNow · 1 year ago

@Anonymous (not verified) · "Neverthless, I'd be interested in the math of lease vs. purchase."

I don't know whether you have checked this out - but we have a very active Leaf forum. I've done various calculations there to compare buy vs lease. You do pay more for lease compared to lease, but not that much (though it depends on how exactly you calculate).

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=1640

"Does the LEAF allow you to monitor the battery temperature?"

Yes & No. They have a meter that shows a number of bars corresponding to battery temperature, but not actual battery temperature. But that hasn't moved, yet ! But, if the battery overheats we will know.

· james (not verified) · 1 year ago

Very informative post. This is what I'd like to see more of here. Real hard data from actual electric car owners. Information like this will help the rest of us make decisions on our ev purchases

· Chris · 1 year ago

Tom, was there ever a concern from you or Mini about power surges that might take place during charging? I'm wondering if I would ever get an EV should I look to see if I could get some type of insurance policy specifically for that or even a lightning rod for the house.

· Tom Moloughney · 1 year ago

Chris: I haven't ever heard of anyone worrying about that. The EVSE's and the actual chargers in the cars(I think) limit the voltage that the car gets so if there is a spike, it shuts off.
Some of the MINI-E drivers in New Jersey had problems because occasionally the utilities pump up the supply to meet expected demand and the voltage would spike causing the cars to either stop charging or not accept a charge at all.
It was baffling for a while and nobody seemed to understand why because when they took the cars in for service, they were fine, and when someone came to inspect the EVSE's, they were fine too.

Jim Mcl who posts here, actually was the one that figured it out. He had one of the MINI-E's and he was experiencing this problem. He would actually turn on heavy power draws in his home to lower his voltage and then plug in the car and it would accept the charge. He did that until BMW send someone out to fix the issue. Maybe he'll read this and explain the solution in greater detail. I never had the problem myself, it depended on where you live.

· EVNow · 1 year ago

@To Interesting note on the voltage fluctuations. A couple have reported problems with charging using Aerovironment's EVSE too because of ground problems. Basically, existing problems that EVSE exposes.

· JRP3 · 1 year ago

Regarding range and cold, there are two effects happening. In cold weather the pack will not accept as much charge during charging and during discharge voltage will sag lower causing more amps to be drawn to make the same power. Driving will warm the cells up to some degree but since they didn't get as much energy from charging range will still be reduced. I'd imagine if you could charge the pack in a warm garage then your over all range would not be affected too much even if the pack cooled down during the day. Strap an electric blanket to the bottom of the pack when charging ;-)

· Tom Moloughney · 1 year ago

JRP3: You are right. I actually do charge in a warm garage when I charge at home. During the winter months I keep the garage at about 48 degrees. Before I insulated it and installed a heater, it would normally only be about 10 degrees warmer than outside so if it was 15 degrees outside, the car would be sitting in a 25 degree garage for 10 hours.
When I drive to work in the morning, the car is warm from being in the heated garage. When I return home after the car has been sitting outside for 12 hours, the car is a frozen brick. I use about 20% less energy driving to work that I do going home, while driving the same route and speed.
Without active thermal management, the battery of any EV will get very cold sitting outside in below freezing temperatures all day. The MINI-E can't precondition, like the LEAF can so that will help, but that means you need to plug it in and preheat for a good long time when it's really cold outside and you will be using a good deal of energy to do so, that has to be figured in when you calculate the cars efficiency and cost of operation.
I have conducted all kinds of tests from using a portable space heater blowing on the pack for hours, to setting a small ceramic heater in the car and putting it on a timer, to driving in the bitter cold without using the heater to try to determine how the battery temperature effects the range. I have concluded the battery temperature effects the range even more than the use of the cars heater, which is what most people suspect is the main culprit.

· Chris · 1 year ago

Tom: I hope the surge protection circuitry is actually in the car since not all EVSE's are going to be created equal. It would also allow for the commercial version to place the information about how the protection works in a manual or even place a warning system in a mobile app. It would be a pain if you'd wake up to find that your car didn't charge overnight.

· jerry (not verified) · 1 year ago

Chris: I've read a lot about electric cars (EV-1 RAV4, Tesla, MINI E, Leaf, Volt) and I have never seen anything discussed about any EV having power surge problems. I'm inclined to think that while it is somehow a possibility it is a very small possibility and something that will effect an extremely small percentage of cars if any.

· Chris · 1 year ago

Jerry: I don't know if you understood my concern. I wasn't worried about the EV's themselves producing power surges, but instead the cars being exposed to power surges from the grid which would greatly lesson the life of the battery. According to Tom's response to my question the protective circuitry designed to protect the car was being activated to some other trial participants. The grid is very stable in NJ compared to Florida, New Mexico or Arizona. With that and the fact that if a problem is noticed in a trial that is not addressed chances are it will be more widespread during it commercial launch.

With that said, this wouldn't stop me from getting an EV once I can afford one.

· Jim (not verified) · 1 year ago

I would expect there's surge protection in the charging station...that's where it belongs. Any decent regulated power supply should be able to handle variations on its input. Now, you could add another layer in the car, but batteries in general can handle a fairly significant variation - they are a pretty large buffer in and of themselves. I'm assuming that the output of the charging station is DC volts. If not, and the car is taking in line voltage (don't think they are), then discount my thoughts!

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